Ngorongoro Crater- Africa's Garden of Eden

The crater lies within the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA) in northern Tanzania. The NCA is an immense expanse of protected highlands, grass and bush lands that covers 8,300 sq km. It is a UN World Heritage Site, having earned this distinction in 1979, on the basis of its outstanding geology and ecology. It is set to the southeast of the Serengeti National Park, and is within the greater Serengeti-Ngorongoro-Maasai Mara ecosystem- setting of one the most spectacular events of the natural world- the annual wildebeest migration.

The conservancy area is 180 km, one hour by light aircraft, away from the town of Arusha. It is visited by one quarter of visitors to Tanzania's northern safari circuit, which covers such outstanding game sanctuaries as: Serengeti, Arusha, Tarangire and Lake Manyara. NCA is Tanzania's only conservation area- as opposed to a national park- and here the authorities allow humans and wildlife to coexist.

Ngorongoro Crater though commonly referred to as a crater, is strictly a caldera. Caldera refers to a collapsed volcano, which usually results in a large, basin-like depression. It is the world's largest volcanic caldera with its walls intact. Its formation was a result of a massive volcanic eruption that caused the magma chamber beneath the volcanic edifice to empty. With no internal structural support, the mountain cone collapsed under its own weight.

Ngorongoro crater is said to have gone through this process 2-3 million years ago. Given the breadth of its base and steep rims, in its original form, it is believed to have been even taller than Mt. Kilimanjaro, Africa's highest peak. Today it is extinct, but nearby OlDonyo Lengai is still active, and occasionally stirs.

The Ngorongoro crater rises steeply to 2,286m at the rim from where it plummets 610 m to the floor. Here at the bottom, it spreads over 265 square kilometres and stretches about 19 km in diameter. The floor is quite level, and at its centre lies Lake Makat. This is a seasonal saltwater mass that is fed by streams that run down the craters walls.

The conservation area is an important facet of the Tanzania's eco-system. It features a variety of wildlife species, grass plains with scattered bushes, woodlands and water springs. The conservation area borders the scenic Rift Valley to the east, and is dotted with extinct volcanic peaks and highland craters.

The Ngorongoro volcanoes include: Mt. Makarot (3133 m), Mt. Oldeani (3217 m) and Mt. Lolmalasin (3290 m). Forest trekking and hiking are excellent ways to experience the peaks from where you can enjoy excellent views of the Serengeti plains.

Besides Ngorongoro, there are two other craters in the area: the Olmoti and Empakai Craters. These two are located in remote and pristine places, where you can enjoy tranquil walks, cultural experiences and game viewing, against a backdrop of spectacular vistas. Among NCA's many other treasures, a most intriguing one is the Olduvai Gorge, towards the border with Serengeti.

Olduvai Gorge is a steep-sided ravine, whose importance is not in its geology - but in its pedigree as an archaeological and pre-historic site. The site is widely referred to as the "The Cradle of Mankind" as some of the world's oldest fossils and hominids -dating 3.6 million years back-, have been found here.

Dr. Louis Leakey, who started work here in the 1950s, came by the remains of Homo habilis ("Handy man")- regarded by scientists as mankind's first step on the path of human evolution. Be sure to have a look at the remains of our worthy predecessor, whose valiant industry spurred by necessity, led him to invent simple stone tools.

The Eyasi Escarpment, Gibbs Farm, Rift Valley wall and Ndutu Area are other interesting sites and features in the Ngorongoro area. The region presents numerous opportunities for a perfect African safari: tracking and hiking, sightseeing, game viewing, trailing and culture tours. As a Conservation Area, wildlife is protected, and allowed to co-exist with humans- just like in Eden before the fall of man.

The people who enjoy this privilege are the Maasai- itinerant herders who are the native inhabitants of the crater highlands. The tall, dark and slender Maasai live in both Kenya and Tanzania, and are one of Africa's most celebrated indigenous people. They are a fearless, proud, and freedom-loving people, who live in the open wild, and have for long remained contemptuous of modern lifestyles. They have always infatuated romantic westerners, since their appearance in explorer Joseph Thomson's 1885 book "Through Maasailand".

The Maasai have since 1959 been allowed to live and graze their cattle in the NCA; except in the crater itself, from where they were ejected in 1974. They have had some conflicts with conservation authorities as their herds, and their own numbers have increased. Today, about 40,000 Maasai live around Conservation Area.

On a safari here, there are opportunities to get to know the Maasai and learn how they live. They co-exist with wild animals, as they do not hunt wild animals- with the exception of ritual lion hunting by young warriors. The practice of lion hunting has been on decline for many years as the authorities take a very dim view of it. The Maasai complain that though their animals are sometimes attacked by wildlife, any retaliation results in punishment by the authorities.

The conservancy aims to reconcile the Maasai, his environment and the wildlife for the benefit of all. However growing visitor numbers have put both the Maasai and the environment under some pressure. The animals though seem to have adapted well to the pressure. The Maasai go on about the serious business of looking after their beloved cattle herds, with little understanding of why tourists would want to come here.

In the entire conservation area, the Ngorongoro Crater is the most popular attraction. Every year, the crater attracts thousand of tourists to the region. It is home to a profusion of bird and wildlife making game viewing excellent, and the scenery is exceptional. Even a day trip- by air, from Arusha is a rewarding experience.

The drive from Arusha is breathtaking, taking 4-5 hours through panoramic splendour across the bed of the Great Rift Valley, to the foot of the Great Rift Escarpment. On this road you climb and descend the hilly countryside, past Lake Manyara National Park, through the small town of Karatu.

Thereafter, you continue along the Serengeti bound Arusha highway, a little past Mt. Oldeani. In no time, the long awaited ascent up the Ngorongoro crater begins. Bush and forest covers most of the outer rim and the climb even on 4WD is challenging. Most road safaris' that start from Arusha make a stop at the crater's Heroes Point. Standing at 2,286 m, this is the first spot that reveals the crater's picturesque majesty, and the views from here will take your breath away.

The immense crater bowl down below appears like is a natural amphitheatre. The gentle grass plains interrupted by occasional bush blends well with the deep green forests and woodlands that ring the inner rims. Rivers, swamps, fresh springs and the lake at its centre, devotedly nourish the crater and its inhabitants. The beauty of the crater, the abundance of its gifts, and the harmony of man and beast, justify those who refer to it as Africa's Garden of Eden.

Heroes Point celebrates the bravery of the many rangers who have perished in the line of duty, while protecting wildlife from poachers. A short distance away, a memorial stone stands in memory of Bernhard Grzimek and his son Michael. The great contribution of the Grzimek's in wildlife conservation in Africa arises from their work in the 1950's when they made the first official count of Serengeti's wildebeest population.

Bernhard and Michael Grzimek also made the film "Serengeti Shall Not Die". The 1959 Oscar Award winner was the first of its kind, and it put Serengeti squarely on the international map. Michael died in a plane crash while filming the documentary.

Ngorongoro crater is a haven for some estimated 30,000 animals. Almost every variety of East Africa's wildlife can be found here, and in such numbers that the crater tops in animal density in Africa, and particularly predators. The big five -elephant, lion, leopard, rhino, and buffalo, are almost a certain treat with every game drive. Prides of lions can be seen hunting, bonding, or just lazing about. The elusive leopard is occasionally sighted by a lucky few in the thickets near the Lerai forests.

The black rhino, whose numbers declined from about 108 to 14 between 1966 and 1995, avoids people and is not easy to spot. You cannot blame the poor beast: it has been poached relentlessly over the years, even at Ngorongoro where it enjoys relatively better protection than elsewhere in Africa. The elephant and the buffalo are in excellent shape here, and are clearly enjoying their stay.

The grazers are most plentiful: the gnu, zebra, waterbucks, reedbucks, bushbucks, warthogs, and gazelles. The tiny dik dik is another shy one, and you will mostly likely find it ensconced in the woodlands. Eland, Thomson's gazelles and kongoni are the most populous residents. These are the animals that make the predators -cheetah, lions, jackal, hyena, and leopard, -stay here so pleasant.

But predators have no luck with the waterbuck. The waterbuck is one weird character: when hunted or when it gets much older, it secretes a substance that causes its flesh to take on a pungent smell and an unpleasant taste. This keeps the predators at bay, for they rarely want to waste energy on a kill they cannot eat. Other inhabitants of the crater include Maasai giraffe, baboons, vervet monkeys, serval Felis, and the nearly extinct African wild dog.

Surprisingly, the hippo is main resident in the craters lake. How the hippo got here in the first place is baffling as the crater walls are so steep. Lake Makat is also home to an assemblage of flamingos -both lesser and greater flamingos. They add to the beauty of the crater as they ring the lake with their pink coloured plumage.

Over 500 bird species have been counted in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and birders are bound to have a rewarding experience. In addition to flamingos, other water birds include: pelican, African spoonbill, avocet, grey-headed gull and the yellow-billed stork. Birds of prey are also in plenty, and it is wise to be vigilant, as they can easily snatch your picnic lunch.

Species of birds of prey found here include: eagle, vulture, pallid harrier, lesser and Taita falcon, and the lammergeyer. Other common crater birds include: the kori bustard, redthroated tit, and Fischer's lovebird, and the butterfly. In the Lerai Forest, look out for the golden winged sunbird and eastern double collared sunbird.

There are four lodges on the crater rim; but no lodges or other accommodation is allowed within the crater basin. From the vantage point of the lodges, guests can marvel at the caldera's panoramic views and its wealth of life. Game drives are in four-wheel drive vehicles at the floor of the crater, but not without a game ranger or a certified tour guide.

To see Ngorongoro crater, it is generally recommended you take an escorted northern Tanzania safari package that includes transport, guide, park fees and accommodation. Tour guides bring valuable local knowledge - where to find the animals, and how to get where you are going. But if you have a lot of time and need more freedom to get around, then taking a rental car in Nairobi (Kenya) or Arusha (Tanzania) is a viable option.

The crater lies at a high altitude, and is thus malaria free. The weather is pleasant all year round; it is neither too hot nor too dry, and temperatures vary between 20-35 degrees Celsius. The rains generally come between November and May. During this season, the floor of the crater becomes an impassable almost swamp.

Unfortunately the wet season is the best time to see the animals in the thousands as they recede to higher grounds. The lighting is perfect for the best photography, but visitors tend to avoid the crater, as it is not fit for game drives. June to early November is usually dry and temperatures drop especially in July when they can approach freezing point.

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