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Africa
Travel Newsletter > Mombasa
- Where the Sun is Ever Faithful
> Page 2
1.1. Mombasa & the
Kenyan Coast - Where the Sun is Ever Faithful
The British were actually successful in this,
by using time honoured carrot and stick tactics. Under the
resulting deal, the Omani Arabs whose headquarters was in
Zanzibar were recognized as overlords over a 16 km strip along
the Kenyan coast. The sultan was to be paid an annuity as
compensation for resulting loss of revenue. This territory
acquired the status of a British Protectorate until 1963 when
the Sultan of Zanzibar ceded it to the newly independent Kenyan
nation.
Mombasa is today a cosmopolitan metropolis
reflecting the influence of Africans, Persians, Arabs, Turks,
Indians, Portuguese and the British. The Old Town is a grid
of narrow winding streets lined with houses built to coastal
Swahili and Indian styles. Some of the houses have intricately
carved doors similar to what you find in Zanzibar and Lamu.
In the Old Town you will find Fort Jesus, the permanent garrison
built by the hapless Portuguese. Fort Jesus, in addition to
being an attraction itself, houses a museum exhibiting various
artifacts reflecting the various cultures that have influenced
the Kenyan coast. You will also see articles recovered from
the ill-fated Portuguese warship Santo Antonio De Tanna, which
sank in the siege of 1697 that lasted 1000 days.
In Mombasa you can take an all day dhow trip
and relive the experience of the traders who sailed along
the East African cost and as far as India and the Persian
Gulf aboard these vessels for centuries. For the past few
years, every November the Mombasa Carnival has been staged
in the town. The Carnival is a lively street parade where
you see incredibly adorned musicians and other artists from
the Kenyan coast and other parts of the country. Street comedians,
Swahili Taarab singers, Maasai warriors, brass bands and individual
artists in outrageous costumes brave the November heat to
march in the parade.
Visitors to the south coast usually head to
Shelley, Tiwi, Diani, Msambweni and Shimoni. These are the
beaches to the south of Mombasa, where hotel and resort development
has taken place. To get to the south coast beaches you need
to take the ferry at Likoni, the southern tip of Mombasa Island.
If this does not suit you, take a flight to Diani airstrip.
Diani beach, 40 km from Mombasa is the most developed beach
at the south coast. This is the quintessential tropical paradise
and here you will find a wide range of hotels, including an
18-hole golf resort. Though some of the other beaches are
excellent, the have limited range of accommodation and attract
fewer people.
Shimoni, 100 km from Mombasa is a centre for
serious deep-sea fishing. It is also from Shimoni that you
can visit the Kisite-Mpunguti Marine National Park. Here you
will see the treasures of Kenya's underwater world. At the
marine park, the snorkeling experience is outstanding and
on a lucky day will swim with the dolphins. At Shimoni, there
are a series of deep coastal caves stretching from the sea
to deep inland. Arab slavers reportedly used these caves in
the dark days of the slave trade. The slaves who perished
here are remembered in Roger Whittaker's song "Shimoni".
At the south coast you have plenty of chances
to indulge in some thrilling marine activity such as water
skiing, wind surfing, scuba diving, goggling and deep-sea
fishing. The Shimba Hills National Reserve, directly inland
from Diani is a surprise and you have the opportunity to see
some of the wildlife that Kenya is famed for. Though the wildlife
is not as prolific as in the upcountry game parks, the beautiful
rainforest and the spectacular Sheldrick Falls make it worth
a visit. You can also spend the night here at Kenya's only
tree lodge at the coast, which has some water holes where
elephants and other animals come for a drink.
The main attraction of the north coast is
its beaches. Heading north from Mombasa these are: Nyali,
Bamburi, Shanzu, Vipingo and Kikambala. Here you will find
hotel and resort complexes to suit the taste of most beach
holiday enthusiasts. From your north coast base, you may want
to visit Mamba Village, reputed to be one of the worlds' largest
crocodile farms. Those interested in eco conservation projects
must not miss Haller Park. The park is named after the Swiss
agronomist who by sheer grit and vision transformed a huge
abandoned cement quarry into a spectacular 7 sq km nature
and animal sanctuary.
At Mtwapa, just beyond Shanzu beach, Kenya
Marineland houses some very diverse marine life, which you
view from a glass-sided underground tunnel. From the same
point, you can take a dhow sailing trip that includes onboard
entertainment - acrobatics, fire eating and local dancers.
Just off the coast, spectacular coral reefs teem with numerous
fish, sea turtles and dolphins. You have opportunity for world-class
diving here, including some serious wreck diving. Diving at
the Kenyan coast is good year round, expect in the months
of July and August when silting and high seas are a problem.
Malindi has a history going back at least
800 years. This is the only town along the east African coast
where the Portuguese found friendship without the persuasion
of arms. Vasco Da Gama erected a pillar to serve as a navigation
aid that still stands today. Today, the town is a particular
favourite with Italian visitors. Most of the hotel and resort
development are to the south of the town along the Silversands
beachfront and nearer town around Malindi Bay. At Malindi
Marine National Park, you can see some fascinating coral gardens
by diving, snorkeling or from a glass bottomed boat.
Malindi is a respected centre for big game
fishing and several world records have been set here. The
writer Hemingway was here in the 1930's to enjoy one of his
favourite macho sports. Watamu, 15 km further south, is a
small beach development around the beautiful inlets of Turtle
Bay and Blue Lagoon. Watamu too has its own Marine Park. At
the edge of the park, you find a collection of caves housing
a school of giant rock cod, some stretching the whole of 2
metres. Consider making an excursion to Gedi Ruins, one of
Kenya archeological treasures. Gedi is estimated to have been
founded in the 13th century but was mysteriously abandoned
in the 17th century. Experts guess that marauding Galla tribesmen
from up north did in the settlement.
Lamu has in recent years found favour with
the international glitterati. The town has an ambience of
mediaeval romance that attracts those who are offended by
the burdens of our modern existence. Life in the island goes
on almost like it did in the 14th century when the settlement
was founded. Lamu has narrow streets and the town has only
a single car for use by the top government official. Everybody
else walks, takes a dhow or uses donkey taxis. If you come
in by air you land at nearby Manda Island, from where you
take a dhow or ferry. In this centre of Islamic culture, the
men wear full-length whites and the women are shorn head to
toe in black.
Shela is the main beach on the island and
is just 15 minutes away by motorboat. You will find good rated
accommodation at Lamu. There are also some very pricey hideaways
in the neighboring islands of the archipelago favoured by
the jet set. In the centre of the town, you find a fort built
by invading Omani Arabs in the early 19th century that now
serves as a cultural centre. Lamu museum is located at the
seafront, in a house once occupied by Jack Haggard, Queen
Victoria's consul in this then important outpost. The museum
is a repository of Swahili culture and on display are artifacts,
dhows, jewelry and crafts.
You will find rated accommodation at the Kenya
coast. See the Mombasa
& Kenyan Coast Hotels page of our website to
reserve rooms for your stay there. Once you are the Kenyan
coast, you can take a break to view some of the wildlife that
the country is famed for. From Mombasa, the nearest park reachable
by road is Tsavo East, 4 hours away. Another good option is
to fly to the Maasai Mara, Kenya's top wildlife sanctuary
and home to the big five- elephant, lion, leopard, rhino and
buffalo. We have a wide range of safari options at our Kenya
Tours & Safari page, which you should visit to view info
and make a reservation.
The Kenyan coast has a tropical climate and
it is a hot and humid place. Temperatures year round vary
between 22° C and 33° C. July and August are the coolest
months. Light clothing is recommended, as even the evenings
are usually warm. Short sleeve shirts, shorts and trousers
for men and short sleeve blouses, slacks and skirts are sufficient.
However, in this predominantly Muslin area, women need to
dress modestly so as not to offend local sensibilities. But
swimwear is perfectly acceptable at beaches and hotel premises.
Africa
Travel Newsletter > Mombasa
- Where the Sun is Ever Faithful
> Page 2
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