1. The
Great Wildebeest Migration - One of New Seven Wonders of the
World
 Between
Kenya and Tanzania, you have Africa’s most diverse and
abundant wildlife. Animals within protected areas of game
reserves and national parks have largely remained on a free
ranging basis in their natural habitat.It
is principally for this reason, that East Africa is the worlds’
most outstanding safari destination.
Fittingly, it is here that one of most spectacular
phenomenon of the natural world takes place- the Great Annual
Wildebeest Migration. This cross border event, is one of the
last great migrations, and is
increasingly celebrated as a unique world heritage. In November
2006, a jury of experts polled by ABC Television - a leading
American broadcaster, affirmed the annual migration as one
of the “New Seven Wonders of the World”.
The migration event, the Maasai Mara Game
Reserve (Kenya) and the Serengeti National Park (Tanzania)
– where the phenomena occurs, were collectively selected
to share in the honours.
The Great Wildebeest Migration is a yearly
mass movement of millions of ungulates (hoofed animals) allured
first to the north, and then back to the south by the promise
of rains. Tirelessly following almost the same pattern each
year, and at around the same time of the calendar, the animals
take an amazing yearlong 2,900 km clockwise trek. The great
migration involves an estimated 1.3 million wildebeest, 200,000
zebra, and a multitude of gazelles, among a few other hoofed
species.
The Mara-Serengeti ecosystem supports the
most varied collection of terrestrial wildlife in the world.
The principal groups are carnivores, primates, reptiles and
ungulates. The carnivores have among them the
usual suspects: leopard, lion, cheetah, hyena and jackal,
and others such as genet, mongoose, serval and wild dog. Primates
are less common but include baboon, bush baby and monkey.
But the hoofed ones -without whose presence,
the carnivores cannot thrive -are in plenty. The ungulates
include: rhino, giraffe, zebra, buffalo,
warthog, hippo, and antelopes such as reedbuck, impala, gazelle,
duiker, bushbuck, dik-dik, eland, hartebeest, klipspringer,
kudu, oribi, roan antelope, topi, waterbuck, and of course
the wildebeest.
The Maasai Mara Game Reserve is by common
consent, Africa’s greatest wildlife destination. The
Mara -as it is popularly known, covers 1,510 sq km and is
located along the Great Rift Valley, approximately 300 km
southwest of Nairobi. “Mara” in the language of
the Maasai people, who are native to the region, means mottled-
an allusion to the patchy landscape. Rolling hills, open savannah
grass plains and woodlands define the area.
The Maasai are a pastoral tribes-people who
live in southern Kenya and north-central Tanzania, along the
Great Rift Valley plains. They are a fearless, proud, and
freedom loving people, who live in the open wild, sharing
their habitat with wildlife. The tall, dark and slender Maasai
have for long remained contemptuous of modern lifestyles.
They have always infatuated romantic westerners, since the
appearance of explorer Joseph Thomson’s book “Through
Maasailand” in 1885.
The Maasai are not hunters, an aspect that
greatly contributes to their harmonious co-existence with
wildlife. The only conflict arises when wild game attacks
their beloved livestock.
Wildlife in the Mara is plentiful and the
big five – elephant, lion, buffalo, leopard and rhino-
are easy to spot. The predator population here is
abundant and witnessing a lion or cheetah on the hunt is not
just an idle dream. The reserve is also an excellent birding
destination, being host
to over 450 species of birdlife, including the vulture, marabou
stork, secretary bird, hornbill, crowned crane, ostrich, long-crested
eagle, and pygmy falcon.
The Mara being a game reserve, the Maasai
peoples are allowed to co-exist with the wildlife, unlike
in national parks, where no human residents are allowed. The
Mara is a northern extension of Tanzania’s Serengeti
National Park.
The Mara’s savannah provides a magnificent
backdrop for wildlife photography and movies. It is in fact
the location of numerous wildlife
documentaries and movies, among the most celebrated being
the popular BBC documentary series “Big Cat Diary”
and Sydney Pollack’s Academy Award winning movie “Out
of Africa”.
Visitors are drawn to the Mara by its plentiful
resident wildlife, and by the prospects of witnessing the
annual wildebeest migration. Those
coming between July and October are likely to witness part
of the action. Besides its pomp and glamour, the Mara has
some outstanding research facilities; among them Africa’s
leading spotted hyena research centre.
The Serengeti National Park, which was established
in 1951, is found to the north of Tanzania. It is the country’s
oldest and most famous wildlife
sanctuary, and has been selected as a UNESCO World Heritage
Site. Serengeti occupies a massive 14,763 sq km, and lies
335 km from Arusha. Extending southwards from the Kenyan border
at the Mara, it is made up of grassy plains, open savannah,
acacia woodlands and scattered riverine forests.
Serengeti is derived from a Maasai word for
“endless plains”. To the south of the park, the
endless savannah is punctuated by a series of granite Kopjes
-rocky outcrops, some of which feature ancient African rock
paintings. The Seronera region in central Serengeti is the
most accessible, and predictably the most popular. The Grumeti
River to the west is one of the migration river crossings,
and is an excellent locati
on to witness the wildebeest hordes in motion. Lobo near the
Kenyan border has plenty of wildlife during the dry season.
With great effort, Serengeti has been well
preserved, and human interruption kept at bay. In a move that
stirred great controversy, the Maasai were relocated to the
nearby Ngorongoro highlands. Relative to
Serengeti, and taking into account size difference the Mara
is more developed and has far more by way of accommodation
and other facilities.
The Great Migration principally involves the
wildebeest, a larger member of the antelope family, also known
as the gnu. The wildebeest is Dutch for “wild beast”,
and was so named by South African Dutch settlers, who were
inspired by the beasts bewildering appearance and behaviour.
The gnu comes fitted with the crest like a buffalo’s,
skinny antelope-like legs,
a horse-like tail, and a hind slant posture like a hyena’s.
Though humourless by nature, wildebeests have
managed to earn themselves the name “Clowns of the Savannah”.
But when it comes to survival, nobody laughs at the wildebeests,
for they thrive in huge numbers and are a very successful
species.
The average gnu will stand at 1.27 m at shoulder
height, and weigh about 250 kg. Its diet is primarily grass,
and prefers to live in the open grasslands and savannah woodlands
of East, Central and Southern
Africa. Like many bovines, the bulls are larger than cows
in build. The cows experience a gestation period of 8 to 8
½ months and parenting is solely their responsibility.
The gnu are free spirited, and form no social
structures. Though of necessity they travel together, they
are a collection of loners; with no hierarchy, no team leaders,
and only mother-calf relationships are substantial.
The animals spend most of the year grazing
in the expansive Serengeti plains. The migration year begins
on a quiet note, with the migration squad spread over Tanzania’s
Ngorongoro area and parts of southern Serengeti around Lake
Ndutu. The animals usually move to this region in December
after the short rains subside. At that time, the grass
throughout the plains has had months to regenerate. Most of
the cows are then noticeably expectant. The wildebeest happily
settle here, until the onset of the long rains around March.
January slips by almost unnoticed, but February
brings forth a new burst of life. The Serengeti becomes an
extensive maternity unit for 3 weeks or so, with over 400,000
calves being born every year at this time. With the cows’
continued good diet and state of rest, the calves usually
arrive strong and lively. Within a short 3 hours of birth,
they are up
and running, wasting no time to practice for the long and
hard journeys ahead.
By around mid March, hordes of gazelles begin
to stream into the area. The grass begins to dwindle, putting
pressure on lactating mothers to seek better and more nutritious
grass elsewhere. They slowly begin to herd together and move
northwest in columns towards the Serengeti plains, past the
Naabi Hills. They trek steadily at a slow pace; by now only
a few hundred thousands are on the move. The little ones
are a few weeks old, and some even only a few days into the
world. But they are strong enough; they tag along their mothers
into the new, mineral-rich territory.
The animals munch on the wholesome grass as
they move along towards the west. They head on past Moru and
Simba Kopjes, Seronera, Ndoha and Dutwa plains. By May, when
the long rains are waning, the now
surging herds check into the Ndabaka and Ruana plains, to
join the western migratory corridor along the Grumeti River.
They unite with other smaller herds that reside along the
route taken, and continue the
trot in columns.
As the numbers rise, the march raises a majestic
dinof thundering hooves and low grunts. The swelling hordes
attract all sorts of predators- big cats, hyenas, jackals,
and the vultures too. Christmas has indeed come early for
the predators of the Serengeti, and the fattening ungulates
are a welcome gift. This is also happens to be the migrants’
mating season.
The air is filled with noisy grunts, and a cloud of excitement
envelopes the plains.
The Grumeti River is infested with huge Nile
crocodiles that have patiently waited for the time the troops
must cross the river. This is the migration’s first crocodile
challenge; crossing the river is a do-or-die survival game.
After the crossing, the pace goes a notch higher as the trekkers
take on the western corridor through the Musabi Plains.
The 50 km corridor leads them north towards
Lake Victoria, and to the northeast. It is now June and the
dry season sets in. Water in the plains is not plentiful,
and most of the green is dried up. Many animals die during
this time, some out of sheer exhaustion. The lake region,
with its unique rainfall pattern, brings a little relief.
The animals soon head for the eastern banks of the Mara River,
towards the Kenya-Tanzania border.
Around July-August, the troopers arrive at
the Kenyan border, ready to cross the steep banks of the broad
and fast Mara River. This crossing is
truly the greatest episode of the entire migration. The banks
of the Mara River provide one of the best vantage points to
witness the drama, and great crowds of visitors are drawn
here. The crossing is a magnificent and unbelievable spectacle;
in September 2006, an estimated 500,000 animals are reported
to have crossed the Mara River in a single session over a
period of 7 hours!
About 1.5 million animals attempt to cheat
death at various points along the Mara River. At first, the
animals halt at the banks and wait for the first few brave
machos to make the initial leap. The wildebeest betrays a
lack of intelligence and judgment, for the animals leap into
the river with little calculation or method. Observers who
had judged the beast stupid
by appearance are bound to feel justified.
In these waters float some very cunning and
ruthless crocodiles, on the ready to nab any crosser that
may stumble. Having waited a whole year for this day, they
show little compassion and make no exceptions-
even ignoring a mother’s kicks to save her calf. The
animals are however single minded about the crossing, and
the heaving procession leaps into the river, stampeding over
one another. In this primal zero sum
game- crocodiles make a hefty meal of many, while other equally
agile predators such as lion, hyena and jackals, await their
turn along the river’s banks.
About 1/8 of the horde do not survive the
crossing; some are carried away by the hard river torrents,
others simply drown, and others are victim to predators. The
young ones suffer the most; not more than one
third of calves born in the Serengeti survive the challenge
of their maiden migration. Those that make it safely to the
other side have now set hoof into Kenya’s Maasai Mara
Game Reserve, where the grass is
truly greener.
While in the Mara Triangle, they are joined
by a new group of migrants from the Loita Hills, slightly
to the northeast of the reserve. Between August and October,
the Mara is full of life with ungulates and predators traversing
the horizons. They spread throughout the park, concentrating
in the western, more watered parts of reserve. There is enough
food
for all, and the wildebeest will reside here for a while.
Others wander slightly beyond the Mara.
In October, after munching most of the grass
in the Mara, the mass columns begin to form again. This time
they head south where the promise of the short rains in November
and renewed grass draws them back to the Serengeti plains.
They move eastward towards Keekorok area, and then head southwards,
crossing the Sand River on their way out.
By November, they are crossing into the Serengeti,
headed for the Lobo Hills, negotiating many rivers on their
way farther south as far as Ndutu and Ngorongoro. It is here
that they will rest for a while; the pregnant ones will calve
and prepare to begin the same migration journey over again.
Archaeological findings at Olduvai Gorge have
revealed that the migration may have been going on for millions
of years. It is difficult to speculate
how much greater the migration may have been before the onset
of the 20th century that brought an ill-fated sweep of rinderpest.
The disease wiped out massive herds of plains animals, leaving
less than 1/10 of
today’s wildebeest population.
It was not until the 1950’s that the
first official count was run, revealing a 99,500 wildebeest
population in the Serengeti. This was the great contribution
of Bernhard Grzimek and his son Michael; makers of the film
“Serengeti Shall Not Die”. Their 1959 Oscar Award
winner was the first of
its kind, and it put Serengeti squarely on the international
map.
Until very recently, scientists had not been
able to fully track this frantic journey. Veterinarian Patrick
Garcia has now led a group of scientists
sponsored by Animal Planet that included Sophie Grange, Anja
Brinch Jensen, and Sébastien Lafont. They employed
modern equipment and technology, including a VHF radio system,
minuscule Global Positioning System (GPS) monitors, and satellite
transmitters. They tracked 10 migration participants- 7 wildebeest
and 3 zebra.
The scientists were able to track the animals
24 hours a day, revealing their exact position via satellite.
After months on the edge, they
showcased their findings in a 3 part televised program –“The
Great Savannah Race”, which was aired on Animal Planet
in July 2006. The documentary takes viewers through the everyday
lives of the ten
co-stars, with glimpses of their chums and foes alike. This
reality show treats you to drama, paradox, intrigue, suspense,
tragedy, and light moments.
The Mara and Serengeti are well serviced with
a wide range of accommodation- ranging from luxury bush lodges
and tented camps, to camping grounds for the thrifty and adventurous.
Out there in the bush, you will be pleasantly surprised that
there is a variety of Kenya
and Tanzania safari lodges having all the trimmings
of 5-star luxury.
You can view game while walking, horse riding
and even aloft a hot air balloon. Taking a safari is best
done on an escorted Kenya and Tanzania safari that includes-
transport, guides, park fees and accommodation. The guides
are usually well versed about the animals, where to find them
and how to get there, and have other such useful local knowledge.
But if you have a lot of time and need more freedom as you
get around, then taking a rental car in Nairobi
or Arusha (Tanzania) is a viable option.
On safari, wear light cottons and linen. Warmer
clothing is needed for the evenings and for your early morning
game drive. Some rainwear is advisable between March and June,
and October and December. You
should bring along a decent pair of sunglasses. The glare
you experience in bright tropical light is a new and uncomfortable
experience for most. It is also a good idea to carry a pair
of binoculars. They are very useful for spotting animals and
will earn you the envy of your less informed fellow travellers.
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