1. Ethiopia - Why Connoisseurs think it is Africa's best-kept secret

Though a friendly people, Ethiopians are fiercely independent and even today appear to distrust outsiders a little bit. This may appear justified when you consider that foreigners such as the British and Italians are guilty of looting historical relics. The Italians carried off to Rome a 150-tonne granite obelisk from Axum, when they occupied the country between 1936-41. Mussolini had sought a rematch of the 1896 defeat by Ethiopia that had greatly humiliated Italian patriots. The British had earlier in 1868 stolen priceless illuminated manuscripts, crowns, crosses, and other treasure. Ethiopia has been waging a campaign to have the artifacts returned.

Most of the historical treasures date from time King Azena of Axum converted to Christianity in the 4th century AD. The highlights of the "Historic Route" are Debre Libanos, Debre Markos, Bahar Dar, Gondar, Axum, Lalibela and Harar. You can reach these sites by air or car, or a combination of both. The route starts at Debre Libanos, 110 km from Addis Ababa. Here in the 13th century, Saint Tekle Haymanot performed a fantastic feat- he stood on one leg for 7 years! A cathedral marks the spot where this happened.

In 1937, during the Italian occupation, the monks of Debre Libanos annoyed the Fascist overlord who ordered the execution of 297 of them. If you are traveling by road, you can pause at Debre Markos, 305 km north of Addis to see the church of Markos with its beautiful paintings of Biblical scenes.

Bahar Dar is located on the shores of Lake Tana and is 560 km from Addis Ababa. The 3,000 sq km Lake Tana is Ethiopia's biggest and is the source of the Blue Nile. Just 30 km after leaving Lake Tana, over a maximum width of 400m, the Blue Nile drops over 45 m. The result is the phenomenon of the Blue Nile Falls, otherwise known to locals as Tississat or "Smoke of Fire". The falls are a spectacular sight and the spray mist produces rainbows and rainforest vegetation that forms a habitat to monkeys and many colourful birds.

Lake Tana has 37 islands, some of which harbor churches and monasteries. These buildings carry beautiful murals and paintings, remains of emperors, church crosses, icons, manuscripts, crowns and other articles of historical and cultural significance. Some of the monasteries such as Kebrane Gabriel preserve ancient customs and do not allow entry for women. You can break your historical tour by sailing on the Tana. Boats are available for hire at Bahar Dar. The lake is also a delight for bird watchers. Flights are available to Bahar Dar, and some reasonable quality hotels too.

Gondar is 748 km to the northwest of Addis and rests on the foothills of the majestic Simien Mountains. Founded by Emperor Fasilidas, it was the 17th century capital of Ethiopia. Noteworthy attractions here are the cathedrals, castles, and other imperial buildings that were built by Fasilidas and his successors. The architectural style combines Axumite, medieval European and Arabian influences. An Indian architect designed the most magnificent of them. For Cathedrals, the most impressive is the hilltop positioned Debre Berhan Selassie (Trinity Church of the Mountain of Light). The city declined after 1855 when Tewodros II removed his capital to Debre Tabor and was subsequently looted in the 1880's.

Axum, one of the key stops on the historical routes, dates back at least 2,000 years. The ancient city is particularly important in the history of the Orthodox Church, as it was the seat of King Azena when he converted to Christianity in the 4th century AD. Every year, the site known as Queen Sheba's bath is the focal point of the ceremony of Epiphany. Archeologist's think that the site and others such as Queen of Sheba Palace were merely named after the famous queen for the city had not been founded in her lifetime.

In its heyday, Axum was a vital and sophisticated kingdom that produced the written language that survives to this day known as Ge'ez. Though Axum is mostly identified with its trademark monolithic stelae, it has other important ruins such palaces and imperial tombs. The stelae were carved from single blocks of stone as markers of the burial places of kings. These were the biggest monolith structures ever made anywhere in the world. Out of the 11 identifiable large stelae, only one stands today at 24 m. In 1937, the Italian dictator Mussolini ordered one of the structures to be dismantled and raised again in Rome.

Axum is also known for the 17th century Cathedral of St Mary of Zion. Legend has it that the original Ark of the Covenant is housed here. The monks jealously guard this treasure and do not allow anybody to view it. This stand has led to much speculation that this object of immeasurable historical and religious value may not actually be in the hands of the monks of St Mary of Zion.

Lalibela is renowned for its marvelous 11 rock hewn churches built in the 12th century AD. The very devout King Lalibela commissioned them, not as monuments, but really as an act of worship. The churches were each carved from a single block of stone. Some are in trenches below ground; while others are built in open quarry caves. Legend has it that the churches were built with great speed because angels continued working the night shift while mortals slept. The result was truly magnificent and the very learned people at UNESCO have declared Lalibela a World Heritage Site. The churches are living monuments and are still in use today. Of all the historic attractions, Lalibela is the one you should not miss.

Harar, unlike other centres on the historic route is associated with Islam. The town with its city wall, towers and narrow streets has the feel of Arabian Nights about it. Founded in 1520, the city is 523 km to the east of Addis. It is an important centre of Islamic learning and has all of 99 mosques. Indeed it is believed to rank fourth in the ranking of holy cities of Islam after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. The first Muslims are said to have reached Ethiopia in the lifetime of prophet Mohamed. The city is also famous for its handicrafts, colorful woven baskets, and silverware. It was also once the home of the French poet Rimbaud.

If the evening finds you in Harar, you may witness a most bizarre spectacle courtesy of the so-called Hyena Men. With wild howls, these fearless men summon hyenas from the hills. They then get the ruthless scavengers to snatch pieces of meat from their hands or even their mouths!

In the east of the country towards the Dankil Depression and to the west near Sudan, the climate is very hot and dry. The central highland region is temperate, and nights can get chilly. Rains come twice a year- the rather irregular short rains from January to March and the long rains from June to September. The best time to visit Addis and the highlands region is the dry October - June period. The traveler is advised to dress very light in the lowlands and desert country. In the highland region, temperatures average 16°C and warmer clothing comes in handy at night and early morning.

Some Addis Ababa hotels are of international standard. A few other towns and locations on the Historical Route and other tourist attractions also offer reasonable accommodation. Unlike in other countries that receive many tourists, the budget traveler will find accommodation rates to be very reasonable.

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