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1.1 Botswana
Emerges as an Up Market Safari Destination
The Chobe elephants are migratory and
move along the Chobe River, their reliable redoubt in
the dry season. African elephants are the largest among
elephant species -and those at Chobe are the largest
of them all. The population has gradually built up since
the 1930's when wildlife in the area began to enjoy
some sort of protection. The infamous trade in ivory,
particularly in the 1970's and 80's encouraged the decimation
of elephant populations in other parts of Africa. But
the elephants of Chobe - thank God - were spared contact
with the dirty hands of poachers. Other animals to see
here include some of the usual suspects on an African
safari - lion, cheetah, hippo buffalo, giraffe, antelope,
jackal, warthog, hyena, crocodile, zebra. The birdlife
is also diverse. Cruising or driving along the Chobe
River, you get the best view of the animals.
The Savuti Marshes of Chobe are reputed
to have the largest predator population density in southern
Africa. The marshes have the textbook features that
draw predators. In a flat and hostile environment, they
provide a place where wildebeest, buffalo, zebra and
many species of antelope congregate for a drink. The
predators - cheetahs, leopards, lions, wild dogs, hyenas,
wild dogs, and jackals - naturally follow. Some predators
such as lion tend to be rather lazy and the setting
here is a gift. The usual entry point for Chobe is Kasane,
which is located about 800km north of Gaborone. You
get here by flying from Gaborone, Maun or Victoria Falls
in neighbouring Zimbabwe. Camps and lodges can be found
throughout the park.
The Okavango Delta, in the north west
of Botswana is the largest inland delta in the world.
Spreading over 15,000 square kilometers, it is formed
as the flow of the Okavango River slows down and soaks
into the sands. That is why it is referred to as 'the
river which never finds the sea'. The network of channels,
ox bow lakes, lagoons, swamps and islands that arise
is very pleasing to the eye. But that is not all of
Okavangos' bounty. The delta is filled with wildlife
- wildebeest, giraffe, hippo, elephant, zebra and buffalo
have all found a home here. The birds too are plenty,
more than 550 types, some of which live on the trees
and others on the water.
The best place to see wildlife in Okavango
is within the spectacular Moremi Wildlife Reserve. The
reserve lies in the centre of the delta and occupies
3,000 square kilometres. In Moremi you view game aboard
a vehicle or by gliding on a makoro (dugout canoe) or
other type of canoe. Accommodation is available in camps
and lodges within the delta area. In Moremi itself,
you can stay in tented campsites but no permanent camps
or lodges are allowed.
If you are interested culture, take
a break at Chief's Island, the largest in the delta,
and see ancient rock paintings. The painting were presumably
executed by the artistically inclined fore bearers on
the San people. The Okavango Delta should be avoided
in summer, especially December to March, when most of
the camps are closed down. At that time, it is very
hot and humid- temperatures rise above 38°C, and
thunderstorms unleash daily. You enter Okavango through
Maun - the deltas' principal town, by flying or taking
a bus from Gaborone, 600 km away.
Visitors to either Chobe or Okavango
may wish to add on a visit to Victoria Falls. Victoria
Falls is actually in Zimbabwe but is easily accessible
from the northern part of Botswana. Victoria Falls is
one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the world
and one of Africa's prime attractions. Situated on the
border of Zimbabwe and Zambia, the falls occur where
the steadily flowing Zambezi River, unwarned, casually
approaches and then suddenly plunges down a series of
basalt gorges in a breathtaking display of several waterfalls.
Mist and thunder emanating from the falls can be witnessed
from far off.
The spray from the falls sustains the
rain forest on the opposite wall of basalt and creates
an almost constant rainbow visible even by the light
of the moon. The falls are best seen from the air, thus
activities such as helicopter flights, balloon rides
and micro-lighting over the falls are a must do. Other
exciting activities available are bungee jumping off
the bridge - which also gives a spectacular view down
the gorge, canoeing, white water rafting, river safaris,
elephant back safaris and many more. Be sure to review
our offers for a Botswana
safari and Victoria
Falls tour.
Adventure seekers, who travel not merely
to convenient places, may wish to check out the Makgadikgadi
Salt Pans. The shallow saltpans cover about 6,500 square
kilometres and rank among the largest in the world.
The atmosphere here is admittedly surreal, with shimmering
mirages in a vast open terrain broken only by a few
baobab trees. Bird watchers in particular will be intrigued
at the unusual environment as they watch numerous flamingos
and pelicans. The pans occupy the area between Francistown
(410 km north east of Gaborone) and the Okavango Delta.
There is plenty of wildlife, in the Makgadikgadi National
Park, but not as much as Chobe- so this will not be
your only reason for coming here.
Botswana is the site of a unique wildlife
conservation initiative in Southern Africa- the concept
of cross border parks. The initiative is anchored on
the common sense observation that wildlife does not
recognise international borders. Successful conservation
efforts in an area bordering another country can be
reduced to naught if the neighbouring countries do not
collaborate. The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is a combination
of two parks -the former Gemsbok National Park in Botswana
and Kalahari Gemsbok National Park in South Africa.
Covering over 36,000 sq km, Kgalagadi
is one of the biggest wildlife conservation areas anywhere
in the world. Botswana contributes about 75% of the
park in the southern Kalahari Desert. The park is a
unique conservation area for it allows the large-scale
wildlife migratory movements that were once common in
the savanna grasslands of Africa, but are sadly not
possible any more. The appeal of the harsh beauty of
the Kalahari aside, scientists are extremely curious
to find out the secret story of the flora and fauna
that has adapted to what appears to be a very difficult
environment.
For ordinary folks, the park is host
to the famous black-maned Kalahari lions. You will also
see gemsbok, springbok, eland, blue wildebeest, cheetahs,
wild dogs, jackals, bat-eared foxes and leopards. Birding
is also excellent and of 297 species recorded, 96 are
resident. It is difficult to get to Kgalagadi. From
Gaborone, you drive for 860 km, of which 550 km is tarred
and the rest gravel. Being a cross border park, you
can also access it through South Africa. The park has
no permanent tented campsites and on safari you must
bring in everything you need.
The dry season, especially between April
and October, is the best time to visit Botswana on safari.
It is then easy to spot wildlife gathered near water
sources. The rains come over the southern summer months
of November to March. The roads are then difficult to
use and with the abundance of water and pasture, the
animals tend to scatter. Early morning and night temperatures
in winter (May to August) can drop below freezing, especially
in the southwest. But the days are then cool to warm.
The summer experiences high daytime temperatures of
up to 38°C. The cloud cover, though, and the rains
tend to cool things a little bit. Beware that August
is very dry and dust and sand storms tends to rise from
the west.
Remember to pack a pair of binoculars-
they bring the animals closer without the usual risks.
A pair of decent sunglasses is a good idea, especially
if you travel to the Kalahari, where the glare can be
somewhat unsettling. Also pack photographic and video
equipment to record your safari for the sake of those
of your unlucky friends who may not have been to Botswana.
On safari, you are advised not to wear white or bright
clothing to avoid exciting the animals. Light cottons
and linens are adequate for summer. To survive winter
mornings and evenings, you need warmer wraps and sweaters.
Women should avoid wearing scanty beachwear in rural
areas away from hotels and campsites to avoid offending
locals.
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