1.
Destination In Focus: On Safari in Kenya
The popular image of safari, especially in
the west, is inseparable from Kenya. Earlier in the last century,
gifted writers such as Ernest Hemingway and Karen Blixen brought
to life the vivid images and uplifting life experience that
constitutes a Kenyan safari. It is at this time that leading
celebrities of the day such as Teddy Roosevelt and Prince
Edward traveled to Kenya on safari. And so the safari gained
a certain snob appeal. The famous went because it was expected
of them. And those on the make because the safari was part
of the certification they needed on the way up. If you want
to take a peek into the mood and character of the players
at that time, read Hemingway's intriguing short story "The
Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber".
In our day however, the Kenya safari is accessible
to many more people. Despite competition from other destinations,
Kenya remains the heart of the African safari experience.
The magnificence and diversity of the wildlife and landscape
is unsurpassed. You are guaranteed to tick off the full roster
of the big five -lion, buffalo, leopard, rhino and elephant.
Other less well-known but essential and chartered members
of the savannah ecosystem are also abundant.
The landscape kaleidoscope rolls out the magnificent
rift valley, the central highlands, the savannah grasslands,
snow capped Mount Kenya and the desolate moonscape of the
north. This is perhaps why the experts advise all those faithful
lovers of wildlife and nature that at least once in their
lifetime they must partake of a Kenyan safari.
Kenya has over 50 national parks and game
reserves where wildlife is protected. But as you already suspect,
on the average safari you cannot hope to cover all of them.
It is therefore a good thing that you get very good value
by visiting only a few of them. This is unless of course you
have a lot of time and can afford to take off the beaten track.
The most popular and from which those with limited time and
budget need to pick from are- Maasai Mara, Amboseli, Lake
Nakuru, Aberdares, Samburu and Tsavo. Top in the off-the-beaten
track category for either wildlife or back to nature activities
are- Kakamega Forest, Marsabit, Meru, Mount Kenya, Mount Elgon
and Shimba Hills.
Maasai Mara is the big one. This is where
you must go even when all the time you can spare is two nights.
This is mostly where all those wildlife videos on Kenya are
filmed. The Mara, as the Maasai Mara Game Reserve is commonly
known, is part of the ecosystem that includes the equally
famous Serengeti of Tanzania. Covering 320 square kilometers,
it is nested in the southwestern corner of the country. The
Mara offers wildlife in such variety and abundance that it
is difficult to believe. In a recent two-night visit, I saw
lions, rhinos, hippos, crocodiles, giraffe, wildebeests, zebras,
buffalo, warthogs, hyenas, jackals, wild dogs, buffalo, leopard,
nine kinds of antelopes and elephant. The birds are also in
plenty -secretary birds, cranes, stork, vultures and ostriches.
It is in the Mara that perhaps the most spectacular
event of the natural world takes place. I refer to the annual
migration of millions of wildebeest and zebra from the Serengeti
in search of water and pasture. The timing of the phenomena
is conditional on the rains and occurs between June and August.
The reverse journey is usually taken in October. With or without
the migration the Mara has abundant numbers of resident animals
and you are sure to have a good wildlife viewing experience
whatever time of the year you visit. If you have sufficient
funds, consider taking a balloon trip over the reserve. This
popular and thoroughly memorable ride usually commences before
dawn and includes a champagne breakfast. The Mara is 5 hours
from Nairobi by road and 45 minutes by light aircraft.
Amboseli National Park sits on the lower slopes
of mighty Kilimanjaro whose peak is across the border in Tanzania.
It is quite an experience to see the Kilimanjaro hovering
above the clouds in an early morning. As the keen photography
enthusiast can already imagine, the mountain gives a dramatic
backdrop for your animal pictures. Amboseli is renowned for
its huge elephant herds. You will also see buffalo, black
rhino, zebra, wildebeest and other plain animals. Lions and
other cats can be seen but are less plentiful here than in
the Mara. The park is 3 hours from Nairobi by road and can
be approached through Namanga, the border post between Kenya
and Tanzania.
Lake Nakuru's claim to fame is anchored on
its flamingo's and the over 400 species of birds found here.
The lake itself is a soda lake on the floor of the rift valley.
The sight of the at times millions of flamingos is quite spectacular.
From a distance the lake appears ringed in pink. Lake Nakuru
is also host to a sanctuary for the endangered black and white
rhino. Lions, Rothschild's giraffe, buffalo and baboons are
all residents here. The park is the most accessible of Kenya's
bigger parks and is only two hours from Nairobi by road.
At the same distance from Nairobi as Lake
Nakuru is the Aberdares National Park. The park has a diverse
topography that includes waterfalls, rain forests and the
rivers that supply water to Nairobi's millions. The flora
and fauna is quite unique and is not found elsewhere in the
country, expect on Mount Kenya. Leopard, elephant, rhino and
the rare bongo can all be found here. But dense vegetation
and inclement weather makes it difficult to spot animals.
You are however guaranteed to see some animals especially
elephants and buffalos at the floodlit waterholes of the two
famous tree hotels, The Ark and Treetops.
Students of the history of the British royal
family will recall that it was at the Treetops in 1952, where
the then Princess Elizabeth was staying on honeymoon when
her father, King George V, died. She descended from Treetops
to assume the backbreaking role of presiding over the far-flung
dominions and colonies of the empire. If you stay at the Treetops
you are bound to meet with some of her fans.
Though not as famous as the Mara, Samburu National Park is
another wildlife haven. Here you will spot lions, elephants,
cheetahs and the elusive leopard. Some animals are unique
to this northern park: Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe,
kudu and gerenuk. You will find the semiarid landscape quite
dramatic. On your trip to Samburu, you may also want to take
in the nearby Shaba and Buffalo Springs game reserves. In
addition, this is the place to take a camel safari. Samburu
is three hours from Nairobi by road.
Tsavo is so huge, all of 20,000 sq km, that
it is administered as two units: Tsavo West and Tsavo East.
This is the park that is closest to Mombasa at the coast.
The park is three and a half hours away from Nairobi by road.
You will find large herds of elephant, especially in Tsavo
East. Tsavo West is filled with crocodiles, vervet monkeys,
antelope, baboons, giraffes and hippos. It is in Tsavo that
poachers were most successful in their bloody racket and this
saw a dramatic fall in elephant population. The good guys
have in recent years gained the upper hand and numbers are
recovering.
But Kenyan authorities are still extremely
wary of the future of the elephant in Tsavo. The country is
very active in seeking a permanent ban on the international
ivory trade. I wish at this point to declare to all that I
am a great fan of the African elephant. I believe this to
be the true king of the jungle and not that overrated pretender,
the lion. You may recall from the movie "The Man-eaters
of Tsavo" how cowardly lions disrupted the building of
the railway in the Tsavo area by feeding on the workforce.
Would true royalty be involved in such a disgraceful affair?
Kenya is a year round safari destination.
The rains come around April- May and November-December. This
does not however, much affect the travelers' ability to get
around. This is except for the heavily forested Aberdares.
In the wet season the roads in the Aberdares are extremely
slippery and the park is at times actually closed down. Generally
the best time to go on safari is over the drier months when
the grass is short and sighting animals is so much easier.
But in areas such as the Mara, the animals are so plentiful
that you are going to see lots of them regardless of the season.
The peak tourist season falls around January to February and
July to August. April to June is the low season and prices
for accommodation in the lodges can be as much as 40% lower
than in the high season.
Accommodation on safari varies from basic
camping to luxury lodges and tented camps. Out there in the
bush, you will be pleasantly surprised that all the trimmings
of 5 star accommodations are available. But if you want to
rough it out, you will find campsites in almost all the game
reserves and national parks. See our Kenya
hotels, lodges & resorts page to view info
and book accommodation for your safari.
It is generally recommended to take an escorted
tour package that includes transport, park fees and accommodation.
The reason for this is that the tour guides are usually well
versed about the animals, where to find them and how to get
there and have other such useful local knowledge. Have a look
at our very good value Kenya
Safari offers of various durations and budgets.
But if you have a lot of time and need more
freedom as you get around, then hire a vehicle in either Nairobi
or Mombasa. See our Kenya
car rental page to do your reservation for a self-drive
or chauffer driven vehicle. On safari, wear light cottons
and linen. Warmer clothing is needed for the evenings and
for your early morning game drive. Some rainwear is advisable
between March and June and October and December.
You should bring along a decent pair of sunglasses.
The glare you experience in bright tropical light is a new
and uncomfortable experience for most. It is also a good idea
to carry a pair of binoculars. They are very useful for spotting
animals and will earn you the envy of your less knowledgeable
traveling companions.
NOTE:
If you have a friend who is going on vacation to Africa and
would find the above information useful then you can email
this page to the person by clicking
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